However another restaurant, after we'd asked about GF dishes, automatically brought out the most delicious crispy GF roll, at same time as bread for the other diners, without being asked. We later discovered the same rolls were on sale in the supermarkets, and brought them for ourselves.
Another head waiter visibly rolled his eyes when we asked about GF and for the next diner Dairy free dishes - this was in quite a pricey hotel restaurant which had said on the menu to ask if there were any dietary requirements, so that their staff could 'try their best to improve things'!!
We didn't buy too much of the specifically 'GF' things on offer in the supermarkets, but it was there, even in smaller shops, bread, pasta, biscuits. Fritata for breakfast was useful, and larger supermarket had about 5 types of GF beer!
It was a relief to get to the self catering half of our stay, and we managed picnic lunches with bread, salad, cheese, olives, ham, and boiled eggs (which we hadn't used before - they were very convenient!).
Only the airport wait at the end of the holiday was a bit more tricky, but Starbucks had muffins, smoothies, and we had some ricecakes to hand....
It does demand a bit of thought, GF travelling, but we had a great holiday. Lost a bit of weight too!!