QEQM and her sapphire and diamond "grape" broochArchived Message
Posted by Beth on January 30, 2016, 9:34 pm
I wondered what others might know about the provenance of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother's sapphire and diamond brooch, which has acquired the sobriquet "sapphire and diamond grape" brooch.
My curiosity was piqued when I saw the following description of QEQM's brooch at the Braemar Games in 1937. From the Aberdeen Press and Journal 10 September 1937, where the reference to zircons caught my eye.
A photo in the Illustrated London News 18 September 1937 suggests that HM was wearing her sapphire and diamond 'grape' brooch.
In the other photo of the same event, HM's brooch is obscured by her fox fur.
The only other photos I have seen of HM wearing this brooch in the 1930s are from a later date.
Getty gives a date of 1 Jan 1935 for the following but this has to be incorrect as HM is wearing the Hanoverian pearls which she only gained access to after she became Queen.
Likewise this photo which has a date of Sept 1938, as HM is carrying a gas mask.
So far, the Braemar Games of 1937 seems to be first time HM was photographed wearing the brooch. Or has someone got a photo from an earlier occasion?
A second mystery is the likely maker of the brooch. The sapphires appear to be "mystery set" which is an innovation associated with Van Cleef and Arpels, although they were not the only jewellers to employ this style.
What interests me is that HM was photographed wearing her brooch in September 1937; yet Van Cleef and Arpels were granted their patent for their technique for mystery setting on curved surfaces only in May 1938 (although they patented their technique for use on flat surfaces in December 1933.)
Does anyone have any thoughts on -
(a) Is this an early use of mystery setting on a curved surface by Van Cleef and Arpels before their patent was granted? It is quite possible that they sold such items before their patent was granted as the process is a lengthy one
or
(b) Were other firms using similar techniques on curved surfaces around the same time?
on January 30, 2016, 9:34 pm
