[ Message Archive | Royal Jewels of the World Message Board ]

    Re: Dutch Saphire Parure - A closer look Archived Message

    Posted by John R on April 15, 2012, 9:34 pm, in reply to "Re: Dutch Saphire Parure - A closer look"

    I took an other look at the collar necklace and the sapphires in the necklace are oval shaped, not round. Another difference with the tiara. Also I believe Emma received the bow brooch with the large oval sapphire a year before she received the tiara. Just like the oval pendant it was a present from the King. Emma was photographed wearing both pieces as early as 1879.

    Photobucket



    --Previous Message--
    : I think that necklace in it's original shorter
    : design resembles the elements in the tiara a
    : lot without being an exact copy (like the
    : wedding gift saphire parure of Queen
    : Wilhelmina). Both the tiara and the necklace
    : have diamond three fold elements between
    : diamond surrounded saphires and round
    : diamonds above the saphire elements. As the
    : necklace probably was designed with the
    : earlier pendant as a possible addition in
    : mind the central element of the tiara wasn't
    : copied in the necklace.
    :
    :
    :
    : --Previous Message--
    : My theory is that perhaps some pieces were
    : ordered and delivered together at the palace
    : at some point but that does not make it a
    : parure that was conceived as such by the
    : jeweller.
    :
    : The tiara and bracelet have a similar
    : central element, Yes. But that's about it.
    : The necklace does not match with the
    : patterns (motifs) and the settings used in
    : the tiara. The only match is the use of
    : round sapphires graduaded in shape in both
    : the tiara and necklace. Well.....
    :
    : The tiara was reset in the 1930's in
    : platinum so that explains the different use
    : of metal (no yellow gold) and setting to
    : some extend but not the use of different
    : motifs. To me it is clear these pieces were
    : never made as a parure. There's not a design
    : drawing of the parure in existence, only of
    : the tiara.
    :
    : The tiara was an existing design by Oscar
    : Masin, that we know and the central element
    : apparently was a brooch from Anna Pawlowna.
    : The brooch must have had some significance
    : because why else was it incorporated? It
    : must have been on someone's (King Willem
    : III?) specific orders. If you look closely
    : at the central element you will notice the
    : setting is completely different from the
    : rest of the tiara. Two existing pieces were
    : combined.
    :
    : Frankly, I do not understand why they
    : incorporated the brooch in the first place.
    : I think the central element with the odd
    : (oval) sized smaller sapphires bordering the
    : larger central rectangular sapphire does not
    : fit at all and interupts the beautiful
    : pattern of the tiara. The central
    : (rectangular) stone from the brooch or a
    : different larger stone could have made a
    : nicer centerpiece but in stead they pasted
    : the entire brooch onto the tiara. Very
    : strange.
    :
    : Subsequently they copied the motif of the
    : central element to a pair of bracelets which
    : again have a very different pattern to them:
    : pairs of two sapphires repeated across the
    : bracelets. Where does this come from?
    :
    : As for the large brooch? Again, completely
    : different piece all together. Clearly. The
    : only match is the use of Sapphires.
    :
    : It has never been established that all the
    : sapphires in the described jewels came from
    : Anna Pavlowna. The central element was
    : apparently a brooch from her and the large
    : oval sapphires from the brow brooch almost
    : certainly came from her collection. But the
    : sapphires from the tiara were described as
    : coming from Kashmere and the diamonds from
    : South Africa which makes it unlikely they
    : belonged to Queen Anna Pavlowna.
    :
    : Worn together as a parure, Yes. Made as a
    : Parure? No!
    :
    : It's quite a similar situation with the
    : House Diamond Parure which has three
    : completely different pieces from one
    : jeweller but it's clear they were never
    : designed as a truely matching parure as the
    : motifs do not match.
    :
    : And then look at the Mellerio Ruby Parure,
    : Peacock Tail Parure or Emerald Parure, those
    : three actually have pieces with matching
    : motifs and settings.
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :
    : --Previous Message--
    : Queen Emma's saphire parure was a complete
    : order. Only the pendant with a central
    : saphire that has been worn on the necklace
    : was a seperate gift from Willem III to his
    : young bride.
    : The tiara, necklace, stomacher and bracelets
    : were ordered at the same time. The central
    : part of the tiara probably is an old brooch
    : of Queen Anna Pavlovna. The saphires for the
    : parure were the ones she left to her
    : youngest son Hendrik to be the main set of
    : his branch of the family. As neither of his
    : marriages produced any children the jewels
    : returned to the main branch of his brother
    : Willem III who ordered a new parure for his
    : second wife. Hendrik himself had a new
    : parure made a few years earlier when her
    : remarried the princess Marie of Prussia.
    :
    : --Previous Message--
    : So I made a little cash-check, for an
    : overview. Not complete, I hope:
    :
    : Sets:
    : Denmark: Emerald Parure
    : Sweden Leuchtenberg
    : GB Turqouise Parure (Gloucester)
    : GB: Turqouise Parure (PMargret)
    : Germany Turqouise Parure of Sachsen-Coburg
    : Germany Württemberg Pink Topaz Parure
    : Germany Bavarian Ruby Parure (Spinell) of
    : Queen Therese now in the Residenz München
    : Italy/Savoy Pink Topaz Parure
    : Luxemburg Turquoise Parure
    : Netherlands Mellerio Ruby Parure
    : Netherlands Emerald Parure
    : Netherlands Peacock Ruby Parure
    :
    : For swedish Cameo Parure I´m not sure if it
    : was made as a set, neither for the
    : Netherland House Diamond Parure, which is
    : not not seen for decades, for the Norway
    : Emerald Parure and the Württemberg Ruby
    : Parure.
    :
    : For the status of the French Sapphire Parure
    : in the Louvre (Queen Amelie Sapphire Parure
    : and Queen Hortense Sapphire Parure) I need
    : the help of our french fellows.
    :
    : Netherlands Wedding gift Sapphire Parure
    : (current status: broken)
    : GB: Sapphire Parure now with Kent (current
    : status: broken. Tiara sold)
    :
    : Some often seen parures are 'composite'
    : parure:
    : Denmark Ruby parure
    : Greece Ruby Parure (composite, too, I think)
    : Greece Emerald Parure
    : GB Aquamarine
    : Netherlands Queen Emma Sapphire Parure
    : Spain Aquamarine Parure
    :
    : The british Kent Amethyst Parure is demi
    : parure.
    :
    : A remarkable surviving set is the Bagration
    : Spinell Parure of the Dukes of Westminster.
    : From time to time something pops up in a
    : auction, recently one or two sapphire
    : parures from Italy. I hope that something
    : sleeps in the Thurn und Taxis vaults. The
    : Prussian sapphire and ruby parures might be
    : gone, I guess. Did I mentioned the once so
    : beautiful Peridot Parure of Archduchess
    : Isabella, now torn apart?
    :
    :
    : --Previous Message--
    :
    : --Previous Message--
    : Are we talking about Parures which were
    : created as such or do we also count
    : composited parures.
    :
    : The Dutch Sapphire Parure was not created as
    : such but generally these jewels are
    : considered part of the parure:
    :
    : Tiara by Mellerio (design Oscar Masin)
    : Necklace (originally a dog collar) by
    : Mellerio - now converted to a tiara
    : Bracelets (pair) by Mellerio
    : Devant de Corsage (Bow Brooch) origin
    : unknown
    :
    : Some might consider Queen Emma's oval
    : diamond and sapphire pendant (one of the
    : first presents she received from King Willem
    : III) also part of the parure.
    :
    : * the small brooch worn by Queen Juliana on
    : her sash is not part of the parure.
    :
    :
    :
    : More here
    :
    : A good example of a complete parure is the
    : Dutch Ruby Parure created by Mellerio for
    : Queen Emma:
    :
    : Tiara
    : Necklace
    : Brooch
    : Devant de Corsage
    : Bracelet
    : Fan (added by Mellerio as a gift)
    :
    :
    :
    : More here
    :
    : --Previous Message--
    : Sapphire Parure or Queen Emma's Grand Parure
    : in the netherlands
    : its a et of jewllery which has grown a
    : Parure
    : * Tiara The centre piece (brooch) is
    : detachable
    : * choker Necklace today its worn as a tiara
    : * 2 bracelets motifs can be worn as brooches
    : * devant de corsage
    : * pendent
    : * brooch
    : * bow brooch
    :
    :
    :
    :
    : --Previous Message--
    : What parts are in the Parure and why is it
    : the
    : most complete, Give it a thought
    :
    : Does a tiara need to be in a Parure?
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :
    :


    Message Thread: