Posted by Lorenzo from Milan on March 6, 2014, 2:41 am, in reply to "Brooch fittings"
Thank you Moriz for the very appropriate suggestions. I think you are absolutely right regarding the pin and the pig-tail hook: you solved the riddle. As to the small brooch fitting I am not sure, I shall check directly the jewel when I go to the bank, but my impression is that the central element is really one single piece. For the chain you are probably right, on the sides of the swag elements there are two very thin hooks that hold the chain, and two identical ones are on the reverse of the bow of the central element. So when you detach the (main) chain from the jewel, you can re-attach it to the brooch. The additional shorter chain is just a prolonge for the main chain.
Thank you again to all!
--Previous Message-- : Lorenzo, the necklace is lovely and though I'm : a bit late to the game I'd want to add my : thank for allowing us to see it in detail. : : I think you're right that apart from the : tiara frame and its screws nothing is : missing. : : The pin on the left side of your photo : should be one part of the brooch fitting for : the central element. The image is not clear : enough to make it out, but I assume the : socket of the pin has a carved screw thread : in order to screw the socket directly into : one of the screw holes on the left and right : side in the back of the central element. The : pin should be adjusted horizontally. The : small pig-tail hook will fit into the : opposite screw hole and is meant to secure : the pin. It's the most common and quite : simple way how brooches were secured in the : 19th century. The tip of the pin will : probably stand out one or two millimeters to : the side in order to make sure it won't slip : out. : : Regarding the small brooch fitting my guess : is that the existing screw on top of the : centre element fixes the delicate bow with : the round diamond and the attached drop to : the outer part of the central element and : it's thus possible to detach this part. The : small brooch fitting might turn this inner : part of the bigger brooch into a small : brooch. : : For the extra bit of chain it's difficult to : make a guess without seeing it, but it might : be a replacement for the four diamond swag : elements on the left and right side of the : central part. The central element (or : possibly only the small bow with attached : diamond drop) would rather have the chain : attached to its sides than being a pendant : suspended from a hook. : : As for the tiara frame - the frame itself : will probably be neither very difficult nor : expensive to recreate. The screws might be : more of a challenge. I too would contact : Bonebakker for the original design and : probably for the reproduction as well. : : : : --Previous Message-- : I would like to know the opinion of you : experts in this board. My family owns a : Belle Époque "multi-purpose" : necklace by the Dutch royal jeweler : Bonebakker, that used to be convertible into : broach/pendant or a tiara, but the tiara : frame is lost. Even if there are no : opportunities to wear it as a tiara (apart : from a family wedding, not in sight) I would : like to have it completed. I assume that : going to the original maker or another : "royal" jeweler would cost more : than the value of the piece. Would you go to : any jeweler, or just keep it as it is? : : : : : : : : : : :
on March 6, 2014, 2:41 am, in reply to "